Tagged: travel writing
In transit, Riyadh

Lufthansa 0620 from Frankfurt to Doha stops in Riyadh in late evening. It’s when most of the passengers end their journey.
The last drink service is about an hour before landing. Some thirty minutes after that flight attendants roll their carts down the aisles to collect all alcoholic beverages, whether the passenger nursing the drink is deplaning or not. We’re reminded that booze is strictly forbidden in the Saudi Kingdom. Even on planes that sit on runways for about forty minutes.
A few rows ahead of me, a woman dressed in jeans and a Gap sweatshirt gets up to go to the restroom after surrendering her half-finished glass of red wine. She returns a few minutes later wearing a dark, long, flowing abaya with an equally stylish shayla wrapped around and fully concealing her long black hair.
On the return midnight flight, I was already dozing as we approached the Saudi capital, just thirty minutes after leaving Doha. An attendant nudged me gently and pointed to the seatback pocket in front of me.
“Are there any pictures of women in lingerie or bathing suits in there?”
I had no idea what she was talking about and don’t recall ever being asked such a question.
She pointed again, but this time poked a finger at my mangled copy of the Herald Tribune. Those too, she told me, are forbidden in the Kingdom. Even in transit.
I honestly can’t answer. “I don’t think so, but I don’t really know.”
She took the newspaper and stowed in the overhead compartment.
“Just in case,” she said. “You can read it later.”
redhead 03, originally uploaded by pirano.
Postcard from New Orleans
I meant to post this nearly two weeks ago, but well, I didn’t.
My friend Kelly sent me some pics from a recent trip to New Orleans where she helped with the ongoing Katrina recovery efforts. There are plenty more on her flickr page.
During a three+ month trip through Europe last year, she spent a few late spring days here in Ljubljana with her friend CJ, just long enough to fall head over heels in love with Slovenian wine. Yes, I was very encouraging and supportive with her addiction, and last I heard, she’s still scouring the NYC area for some bottles.
Some of you may know Kelly from her time as a contributor to Gadling, and her own blogs, Lost in Place and Eurailblog, and a score of other places. I particularly liked this post where she describes Piran as one of her favorite places on the planet. Who can blame her?
Photo from Kelly’s flickr Louisiana set
for the moleskine obsessed
For those whose moleskine obsessions are as insatiable as mine, good news: those nifty journal makers have introduced a City Notebook series to feed our habits.
Each of the 228 page notebooks feature up to 36 pages of zone maps, an alphabetical street index, along with a complete metro system diagram and full list of stops. There are tabbed sections for those who like to stay organized and removable sheets for all of us whoo refuse to tear out any paper from the ruggedly bound spine. And best of all, at just 9 x 14 cm (3 1/2 v 5 1/2″), they’ll fit wherever it is you like to keep them.
The first dozen issued are all European cities: Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Dublin, Lisbon, London, Madrid, Milan (I saw this one at a bookshop there last month), Paris, Prague, Rome, and Wien. U.S. destinations join the club in the Spring –Boston, New York, San Francisco and Washington DC– with Chicago, Los Angeles, Montreal and Seattle versions available in the fall.
Most appear to retail at $16.95 (13 EUR) at most online vendors.
BTW, here’s a pic of a lovely gift I rec’d from event organizers in Paris last July. Yup, it made my day.
(Thanks to Metroblogging Berlin for this reminder.)
security clearance to GitmoBay, but not without a Bible lesson
When Dutch journalist Arnon Grunberg applied for clearance to visit Guantánamo Bay, he didn’t realize that the U.S. military would also throw in some Bible study as well.
From his blog entry, Guantánamo Bay, on Words Without Borders:
As with a blind date, my hopes were low. But after a few official letters, and I assume a few background checks, the U.S. military informed my assistant that I would be welcome to visit Guantánamo Bay at the end of this month.
One small surprise even before my trip: the U.S. military at Guantánamo Bay sprinkles its e-mails with quotations from the Bible.
I don’t pass judgment on this habit. It’s just that I can’t imagine the Dutch or the German army sending me an e-mail with something below the text like, “Kill, or sin will kill you.”
and
At least for the moment, I expect to come back from Guantánamo Bay with a better knowledge of the Bible. I won’t be allowed to speak to any of the prisoners, so a better understanding of the Koran is unfortunately enough not in the works.
The tourist’s advantage.
In his blog entry on Words without Borders entitled, “An Imitation of an Imitation of a Place,” self-professed tourist Arnon Grunberg writes:
Next week, I’ll be embedded with the Dutch army in Afghanistan. I worry a little bit about the toilets –I’m a sucker for clean toilets– and the Taliban.
But I realize that I’ll be a tourist in the army with the one great advantage that a tourist has. He can get out. At least, he likes to think so.
paper obsessions
After years of scribbling notes into haphazard notebooks, steno pads and other such gup, I decided last week that it was time to break down and begin using real journals. Judging from this piece in today’s Tacoma, Washington News Tribune, I’m hardly alone.
These timelessly classy blank books have always caught my attention at book stores and stationery shops, but whenever I bought one, it was always as a gift for someone else. (I hope they’re being used.) That changed in Nijmegen, Netherlands a little over a week ago, when I stepped into an elegantly cramped bookshop to innocently escape the afternoon mist and chill, and where I walked out with my first moleskine (mol-a-skeen’-a) notebook, joining, in my mind, a mythical brotherhood with Van Gogh, Mattise, Hemingway and Chatwin.
(This wasn’t actually my first moleskine; deciding I wanted to breathe life into the dying art of postcard writing, I bought a small tabbed address book version last December, in which I carefully entered the most meaningful addresses from my past and present that I could collect. It was an important first step, and I can’t remember the last time my handwriting was so legible.)
The travel writer Bruce Chatwin‘s obsession with moleskines has been well-documented elsewhere. He would buy them by the hundred before embarking on a journey, and famously said of his journals: “To lose a passport was the least of one’s worries: to lose a notebook was a catastrophe.” [A moleskine website has a brief entry from one of Chatwin's moleskine entries written during the writer's extended stay in Australia while writing his modern classic, The Songlines.]
The decision to buy my own moleskine actually came a few days earlier, on an early morning train ride from Ljubljana to Klagenfurt through another dreamy mist. A slight delay allowed enough time to finish Oracle Night, Paul Auster’s delightfully noir parable on time. An enthralling work, the novel takes place over the course of nine days in which a writer’s life turns inside out after he buys a mysterious little blue Portuguese-made notebook. Most of the novel is actually set in the notebook, which for a time becomes such a dizzying jungle of activity for the protagonist –and for the reader– that he’s forced to resort to footnotes. [Here's a blurb from a Paris Review interview with Auster's comments about notebooks.]
Mine isn’t blue; it’s a semi-glossed black, stylishly minimalist, but it’s not blank in the purest sense of the word. I chose the ruled line version, simply because sometimes I need guidance. The absolutely blank book, I decided, was too big a first leap. I’ve glanced at it several times a day since returning home, sitting there on a largely empty shelf where I envision it being joined by dozens more.
But I have yet to put black ink pen to acid-free paper. I’m not too worried about that, actually. As with the pair of 1990 Bordeauxs I’m still clinging onto, the right moment will come. In the meantime, I’ve carefully selected items to place in the book’s accordion folder: a 20 euro bill, just in case; a photocopy of passport info; a few small photos; and some loose paper to avoid, at all costs, tearing a sheet from its ruggedly-bound spine.
While reading the News Tribune piece on Moleskiners, I found others who share what I should now finally, readily and unequivocally admit is an obsession with stationery. (While typing this, I just realized that I’ve been collecting stationery and letterhead from various hotels in which I’ve stayed, paper that I’ve never used and most likely never will.)
A nice start is papersnobbery, a newish blog that is subtitled as, appropriately enough, “an obsession with stationery.”