End of the South American Line – Postcard from Cartagena

Sunset over Cartagena's old townCartagena, Colombia – After a fourteen-and-a-half hour bus ride from Medellin, I arrived in Cartagena this morning, the northernmost point I plan to reach on the South American continent. The snap above, taken from the top floor of my hotel, was my first view of the Caribbean since 1999.

The climb north officially began 127 days ago on Martillo Island on the Beagle Channel in Tierra del Fuego, the southernmost point where I managed to plant my feet. As the harrier flies, that’s 7,754 kilometers, or 4,818 miles ago, nearly twice the width of the continental U.S. With the exception of a couple hitches, the entirety was covered by bus. I think last night’s was the last longer bus ride for at least the next two months. I hope so because they’re killing me.

Cartagena is also the hottest place I’ve experienced this year. The mercury had already reached 32 C (90 F) when I arrived this morning, with the humidity hovering at about 80 percent. Now, it’s cooled down to a sultry 30 degree (86 F), which weather.com says ‘feels like 99’. I believe it.

Just eighteen weeks to cover the length of an entire continent was woefully short, particularly the past month when the sudden immediacy of deadlines forced abbreviated stays in Ecuador and Colombia. I have to be in San Jose, Costa Rica, on the 27th, and have to catch a boat here for Panama (via the San Blas Islands!) on the 14th. So I won’t be moving on just yet.

I’ll be parked in Cartagena for the next six nights, exploring the city’s colonial charms while trying to catch up on a bit of work. I’ve been making decent progress on my book manuscript in recent weeks, so I can’t stop the momentum now. I hope to share a chapter or two here when they’re near some sort of completion.

To give you quick lay of the land, below are a few more snaps taken today.

Enjoy!

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Today’s Headlines #30

IMG_6673From Medellin, Colombia, for 05-June-2013.

European Cyclists’ Federation Launches Inaugural EU wide Cycling Barometer

This study by the European Cyclists’ Federation, released yesterday in the run up to next week’s Velo-City 2013 international conference, served as a strong reminder of how far ahead the old continent is in terms of bicycling culture, at least in comparison with South America, and presumably, Central and North America. While traveling through South America over the past 19 weeks, I’ve only seen dedicated bike lanes in a few areas of Buenos Aires, Mendoza, Quito, Popayan and Medellin, and none in Bolivia or Peru (Cusco and Lima).

By the way – Slovenia ranked #12 among the 27 EU countries, pretty much where I expected it would fall in such a study.

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Hummingbird Farms, Grass Pyramids and Botero Plaza – RTW Week #19

Botero's Mujer con fruta in Botero Plaza, Medellin

Botero’s Mujer con fruta in Botero Plaza, Medellin

Medellin, Colombia – This past week, the 19th into my RTW trip, began in the Zen surroundings of a hummingbird and butterfly farm in the mountains outside of Quito and ended at Botero Plaza in the loud and busy heart of central Medellin. In between, I spent about 37 hours in transit, snapped 949 photos, and added the fruit juices of Colombia to my list of fetishes. And speaking of which –lists, not fetishes– Colombia earned the distinction of becoming No. 50 (!) on my Countries-Visited List.

Tuesday, May 28 – Quito and Mindo, Ecuador
I make a day trip to Mindo –about two hours one-way from Quito– where I spend the late morning and early afternoon with hundreds of hummingbirds and butterflies, taste organic chocolate, and enjoy my first experience with the addicting sweetness of stevia, now my new favorite plant. Laura, my travel partner for the day, agrees.

Butterfly in Mindo, Ecuador

Not all butterflies are free.

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Six Shots From Lwdin Franco’s ‘Above is as Below’

From Es arriba como es abajo, or Above is as Below by Colombian artist Lwdin Franco. Museo de Antioquia, Medellin, Colombia, 03-Jun-2013Medellin, Colombia – This installation, Es arriba como es abajo, or Above is as Below by Colombian artist Lwdin Franco, is part of El Barro Tiene Voz: De las ceramicas prehispanicas al arte actual, currently on display at the Museo de Antioquia in Medellin.

These small terra-cotta figurines caught my attention because they reminded me of these snatched body clay figures that appeared throughout Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital, as a protest about a year ago. But unlike those clay doll’s sullen appearance, the visual appeal of Franco’s figures was invigorating, as the piece’s elaborate choreography twists, turns and dances on a museum wall. They were like a much-needed good cup of coffee, and an excellent contrast with the museum’s fabulous collection of Botero sculptures and paintings. More on those soon.

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Today’s Headlines #28

Popayan 002From Popayán, Colombia, for 02-June-2013.

Today’s Headlines #27

Popayan 001From Popayán, Colombia, for 01-June-2013.

Marilyn Monroe as Icon, Around the World

Marilyn Monroe in Bolivia

On the Chilean-Bolivian border near the Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve, 26-Mar-2013

Today is Marilyn Monroe’s birthday, so you expect to see many images of the enigmatic star who would have turned 87 today. I’ll add a few of my own, snapped over the past year or so. The one above was taken in a small out-building just inside Bolivia on the border with Chile near the entrance to the Eduardo Avaroa National Fauna Reserve. Perhaps it’s not the last place you’d expect to see a portrait of Marilyn Monroe, but likely one far down the list.

The portrait had pride of place on a wall near those of Bob Marley, Jim Morrison and revered former Chilean President Salvador Allende, which reminded me of the results of an international survey conducted some 20 years ago (maybe 25?), an attempt to identify the most recognized persons on the planet. There were no religious or political leaders among the top-three, but rather those who in one way or another, entertained and dazzled: Muhammad Ali, Bob Marley and Michael Jordan. Monroe couldn’t have been far behind. As her myth grows, she’d probably crack that top-three these days.

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The Joy of Dance (Pic de Jour)

Expressing the joy that dance creates. Quito, Ecuador, 25-May-2013

Expressing the joy that dance creates. Quito, Ecuador, 25-May-2013

Quito, Ecuador – I’ll be offline for most of the next 30 hours, part of that time on a bus en route to Popayán, Colombia, so I’ll leave you with this parting shot of one of the most unforgettable faces from my 18 days in Ecuador.

This is Tatiana Arroba, a folk dancer who performed with the musical group Paramo after last Saturday’s March Against Monsanto demonstration in Quito. The joy she expressed with every move was infectious, much like the genuinely upbeat and hopeful spirit of many of the Ecuadorians I met.

I leave feeling fairly positive about the direction and future of this country, its hospitable people, and its rich, beautiful and diverse landscapes. That’s not something I’ve been able to say honestly about many countries I’ve visited. I look forward to returning one day.

PS – May has been the busiest month this year on Piran Café, and there’s still more than a day left. :)   Many thanks for stopping by, for the re-blogs and for spreading the word. By all means, don’t stop now. :) If you’re on Facebook, check out and follow the Piran Café page there as well. I post several photos daily and other links and news tidbits, too.

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